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Northern Walk |
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THIS walk is based on the fifteenth (2000) edition of our "Two Town Walks in Newbury" booklet which incorporates the work of several contributors, but specific mention is made of the:
of the maps drawn by the late Ernest Paul, who was a local architect and chairman of The Newbury Society's Buildings committee, updates resulting from Mr. Jeremy Holden-Bell walking the routes, and desk-top publishing and photographs by Mr. Robert Willis. |
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| For convenience our tour is divided into two walks, one south of the River Kennet, and the other north. They can be taken separately or as one longer walk. Both start from West Berkshire Council offices in Market Street near the centre of the town. The figures in parenthesis in the text refer to locations on the maps. |
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THERE are also many interesting sites and buildings on the outskirts of Newbury, at Speen, Shaw, Donnington and Sandleford for example, which cannot be fitted into a short tour. Being on a river crossing, Newbury has a long history starting with the Middle Stone Age about 7000 BC. The Romans left a cemetery on the site of the railway goods yard and had a military station at Speen from which a road went to Cirencester. From Saxon times onwards Newbury has been the centre of a rich agricultural district with markets and fairs, and a flourishing woollen cloth industry from the Middle Ages to the early 19th century. |
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Leaving the Council Offices, walk through Inch's Yard. INCH'S Yard is an
attractive mid 1980's development, much of it by the conversion of old
workshops and stores. Proceed north along Bartholomew Street past a
variety of 18th and 19th century buildings, the first of which is the
imposing Radnor House (26) with pedimented door and fanlight. |
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Further along, contrast is provided by the early 1900's buildings, the 1966 Pearl House office block was demolished in 1999, and the 1980's Kennet Centre where youngsters may wish to look at the creatures on the roof. Following completion of the current redevelopment, the bust of Jack of Newbury is expected to be returned to a prominent position in the Kennet Centre. |
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St. Nicolas Church is Lloyds Bank that is on the site of the original
Globe Inn, predating the Globe Inn opposite the church and now called
the "Snooty Fox". Opposite Lloyds Bank is an 18th century
house "Birthdays"
(27) with a wide three-sided bay, the centre window of which has
glazing bars in a "Gothic" manner at the top. On each corner of Newbury Bridge is a building incorporating an arched shelter. These buildings completely conceal two arches of the bridge that is, in fact, a three arched structure designed by James Clark in 1769. The bridge is of brick with stone facing and cast iron balusters. From it one has a fine view of Northbrook Street which, for all its defacements and alterations, is still an imposing street above the shop fronts. The street, named after the stream that once flowed along it but now culverted below, was completely re-paved and enhanced in 1993 to slow down traffic and improve conditions for pedestrians. Shortly after the Newbury Bypass opened in November 1998 daytime pedestrianisation was introduced. |
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We walk down the west side and back up the east side of Northbrook Street with diversions. |
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| THE first building, Bridge House, is 18th-19th century restored and extended a few years prior to being refurbished in 1993 as an office for the Newbury Building Society.THE first building, Bridge House, is 18th-19th century restored and extended a few years prior to being refurbished in 1993 as an office for the Newbury Building Society. |
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| THIS leads to the Kennet and Avon canal that was reopened throughout in 1990. Sadly, Newbury Lock Cottage was destroyed by fire on 18 October 1989, but the site was laid out as a public open space in 1995. This has made available a view of West Mills from the patio of the Lock, Stock and Barrel that has not been possible for two centuries or more. The first sculpture in the new Town Trail is planned for this site. | |
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horse-bridge downstream of Newbury Lock was also renewed and the channel
containing the River Kennet improved in 1995. As the towing path is not
continuous under Newbury Bridge, horses towing barges had to come
through the tunnel, up the alley and cross the street. Rope marks are
clearly visible in the bricks on the corner by the navigation. On 26 March 1999 John Gould, MBE, the man who campaigned unceasingly for the restoration of the Kennet & Avon Canal was interred in the Globe Inn Garden immediately south of Newbury Lock. |
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THE next building, Clarks and Hadleigh's (28) was a Tudor house and still contains heavy beams. This building originally extended over an opening into Northcroft Lane to join the former Anchor Inn with its green tiles. The inn was completely rebuilt as a shop in the 1980's and since converted to the Alliance & Leicester Building Society. |
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Northcroft Lane widens is a former Almshouse (29) with Gothic
windows built in 1821 by John Childs. Then comes the former Arts
Workshop (30), formerly a 19th century Temperance Hall and before
that a school. Temperance mottos are set in four stones on the front. It
is expected to become a licensed restaurant!
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| The only other buildings of note that remain in the lane are the Salvation Army Citadel with its ornate front, and the former Old Drummers' Arms public house, which is now converted into offices. Further west is the award winning Swan Court. | |
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WITHIN a few paces are Dixons, a 19th century front on a 17th century house with gables and cottages at the back, and the fine mid-Georgian building occupied by Vision Express and Olivers Timpson (31) with rubbed brick pilasters and a moulded brick cornice. Further down this side of the street there has been much rebuilding, in between the Georgian houses, some of them with earlier origins. |
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IN Cromwell Place there are several interesting Georgian buildings and the Old Congregational School Rooms (32). Beyond is the modern United Reformed Church. Newbury had one of the earliest Congregational Churches. |
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No. 73 (33), now Toni & Guy, was an 18th century house, much of which still survives. Next to it is the opening to Weavers' Walk, a recent development of small shops. |
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| WEST Street was once lined with 18th and 19th century mainly terraced houses, of which only a few are left between Strawberry Hill and Northcroft Lane. | |
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| WE enter the modern Bayer House (34) campus, part of the former Elliot furniture and glider factory site. The large building is the headquarters of Bayer plc with its main entrance in Strawberry Hill. It fits in well with its neighbours despite its size. The attractively landscaped site is open to the public. A sculpture by Stuart Hill stands next to the rear door of Bayer House. | |
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pass alongside a modern office building and the early 19th century
Methodist Church that was threatened with demolition in the 1980s, but
saved following a Public Enquiry. Beyond is the 17th century Monument
Inn (35) where cannon balls from the second battle of Newbury (1644)
were once found in the walls. Just north of the inn, Speenhamland Water
ran across the street dividing the Borough of Newbury and Speenhamland
on its way to The Marsh, now Victoria Park. |
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| No. 19, The Old Saddlery (36) is an 18th century house. The original shop front of bow windows has been expertly restored. Behind is Saddlers' Court, a mid 1980s conversion into small shops and a wine bar. | |
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WE pass the Chequers Hotel, an 18th century building with earlier features, the 18th century Bacon Arms (37), and come to some fine 18th century houses, Albion House (38), the High House and Northbrook House, recently extended, which make an impressive block. In the triangle between the fork in the road is the Chestnuts (39), a very fine early 18th century house with a contemporary staircase and panelling and a modern glass addition at the side. |
| The left fork, Old Bath Road, contains several imposing Georgian houses, including Goldwell House, Speen Court (40), Lawn House and Castle House, all of which are well worth seeing if one has the time. Along the right fork, Oxford Road, is the Wessex House (41), a Regency villa with characteristic iron verandah. | |
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THE building occupied by a restaurant and the wine shop contains 18th century panelling. Thames Court (42), formerly York House, is a notable Queen Anne building that dominates the street. |
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WE see the 17th century Manor House (43), with contemporary staircase, which is set back opposite Park Way, the 18th century brick Gothic former St. Mary's Vicarage and Clarendon House (44) that dates from about 1750. In 1996, the imposing Dower House adjoining Clarendon House was opened on the site of the old, long demolished Dower House. |
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| THROUGH an opening opposite Pelican Lane is the c. 1800 Elizabeth Cottage (45) that once had a heraldically painted ceiling, but has been partly rebuilt since. |
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Broadway, in the coaching period, had an important collection of inns
where passengers from London to Bath could make a half way halt to spend
the night, change horses and visit the Speenhamland Theatre where they
could see performers like Sarah Siddons. The Castle, The Bear, The Cross Keys and The George and Pelican inns were the most notable, particularly the latter, for it was there that the Berkshire magistrates met in 1795 to agree the scale of relief to be paid to the poor. As the Napoleonic wars were causing distress among local clothing workers, the magistrates decreed that wages should be subsidised from the rates, taking into account family size, the price of bread and the current level of wages. This so-called Speenhamland Act was adopted all over England and was castigated for encouraging large families and the paying of low wages. |
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The last building on the east side of The Broadway was formerly the Kings Coffee House (46). Next door, is the first building in Northbrook Street with its curved front and classical pilasters. Then follows a 17th-18th century tile-hung building that, together with the medieval timber framed building at the rear, has recently been successfully restored. |
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| No. 42 (Specsavers) is a building of 1724 of which only the facade is preserved. The decorated front shows Dutch influence, probably through Marlborough's wars. The two shops opposite West Street are 18th century on an earlier core and have attractive Venetian windows. The arcaded building past these is a satisfactory modern addition to the street. | |
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pedimented 18th century front above No. 26 (Cheltenham & Gloucester)
was the entrance to the South Berks Brewery and contains panelling.
The house on the south corner of Marsh Lane (and 47) and the area now occupied by Marks Spencer is historically one of the most important in Newbury. This was the house of John Winchcombe, Jack of Newbury, who entertained Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon. He was a very important figure in the country's clothing trade and rebuilt the Parish Church. Behind the half timbered house, of which can be seen the oriel window in the side lane, Jack had his one hundred looms, the first large-scale factory in England. |
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Camp Hopson, Northbrook Street |
Camp Hopson occupy three main buildings. The first and the third are late 18th century, respectively pedimented and parapetted. The middle building is dated 1663 with classical pilasters and hung tiling. Inside is a magnificent staircase with a moulded plaster ceiling. Here is said to have been a Baptist Meeting House. The mid-Georgian Old Rectory, behind the shop immediately north of the river, can be seen from the bridge. We finish our walk at the Costa Coffee House. |
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Sunday Market in Northbrook Street (30th May 1999) |
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can only finish by saying that Newbury, though once incomparably more
attractive, not only has many features still worth looking at, but has
also gained some fine new attractions. It is hoped that these walks will
whet your appetite and encourage you to look deeper and further afield.
© 2000 The Newbury Society. |
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